Here Now: Fall/Winter 2015 with KENZO for Men

KENZO’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection dwells on individuality, survival, protection and the functional. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have welcomed the unknown with inimitable curiosity, celebrated the signs of others and observed symbolism as communication through cult scribbles, care labels and unique prints.

“We are a community. Layered silhouettes throughout the collection provide warmth and security against the elements. We deconstruct to reconstruct the functional. Waterproof nylon parkas in green and orange offer a utilitarian protection over boxy shaped fine wool jackets. Parachute seams on silk and wool trousers also appear on shirt and jacket sleeves. Blanket jackets in a fleece jacquard come juxtaposed over space dyed knits. Oversized pinstripe wool overcoats with blanket stitched reveres are a nod to the traditional when worn alongside silver foiled outerwear. Knitwear highlights include thick intarsias, and multicolored blankets collaged together. Rich dark greens are mixed with blacks, greys and burgundy. Brightness is introduced with flashes of metallic or orange.”

For accessories, patchwork utility shoes and boots are laced together. Aviators with oversize protective temples accompany knitted handwarmers and beanies, and drawstring totes come in leather and stretch satin or fleece.

Hybrid combinations of tailoring and sport characterize this collection. The reefer slim coat with hood in military olive tech fabric shaped with black piping and patch pocket sleeves that opened the show is a case in point; it looks like a wet suit transformed into urbanwear. Sleeve cuffs with thumb holes, a functional detail taken from motorcycle racing jackets, show throughout the on coats, jackets and sweaters. Slim trousers in military olive or burgundy tech fabric are topped by great tunic sweaters in multicolor space dye knits or spliced, ikat-style stripes with thumb holes cuffs. Underneath the layered olive outerwear there’s fluorescent orange and black acid wash style jean jackets and stovepipe jeans.

Pattern runs throughout this collection on great satin parka coats spliced with black bands, in all over chalk on blackboard style doodles and big, fuzzy block lettering on knits and complex tech pattern intarsias. These patterns are piled one on top of another in jackets, sweaters and shirts in a seemingly haphazard fashion that creates a choatic symphony of color and form.

Jumpsuits are roomy styled like outerwear blousons with contrast colored yokes, or in chaotic pattern knit.  And there’s is a psychedelic feeling in tie-dye splatter-colored fur, which shows up in collars on satin tech blousons and allover in one scoop-neck jacket.

Everything in this collection is designed to be layered and the piled-on look is accentuated with trompe-l’œil blouson-over-coat  and multiple stripey sleeve constructions, which bring a muted rainbow of color to each look.

Bonded crinkled silver tech fabric  with fluorescent orange satin for big jackets gives a cartoon super hero drama to big anoraks and big parkas. And contrast-colored oversized stitching shows throughout on sweater stripes and bicolored leather sneakers as though the clothes have been taken apart and roughly stitched back together.

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